This was truly a tour which we had been looking forward to doing for a very long time. The remoteness of the hills. The great setting of the Geal Charn Group, huge and central Ben Alder and Beinn Bhoill as the whaleback ridge towering above Loch Ericht. All easily accessible from Culra bothy.

But wait: Easily accessible? Did we mention that remoteness has drawbacks and, hey!, that there was the long three-hour hike in from Dalwhinnie? Or for us, the more technology minded, the long bicycle ride from Dalwhinnie to Culra? We didn’t mention it? Ouch.

So the morning of 31 May 2014 saw Frank and me unloading the car: rucksacks, boots and bicycles. After all equipment was stuffed into the rucksacks and the bicycles prepared for action we crossed the railway tracks at Dalwhinnie station and set out on the 15 km ride towards the remote bothy. The dirt road was level most of the way and the surface was hard and flat. On the ride towards Ben Alder Lodge a small number of rises, one of them significant, need to be climbed only to experience exhilarating speed afterwards when cruising down back towards the shore of loch Ericht. At Ben Alder Lodge the track starts to climb for a kilometre or so and I for one had to be content with pushing my bike for a few dozen minutes. Frank cycled on being in good shape and enthusiastic. I met him again on the right bank of the Allt a’ Chaoil reidhe sitting in the grass quite some time later. On the opposite side of the river there was Culra Bothy.

We left the bicycles there and continued up the perfectly well-maintained path leading to Loch Bealach Beithe. After maybe 25 minutes the path reached a white boulder (mentioned by Storer) from which an indistinct rough path headed across the moor and heather towards the foot of the north-east ridge leading up to Beinn Alder’s plateau: The Long Leachas. We crossed the burn coming down from Loch Bealach Beithe and … [Read More]

On 3 May 2012 Frank and I wanted to walk on tracks we had done nine years before together with Alex. To complete the Grey Corries we still needed to visit Stob Ban and Sgurr Choinnich Mhor, the two outliers of the Grey Corries ridge.

As before we approached the mountains by way of the single-track road on the south bank of the River Spean. At Corriechoille we passed the farm and continued on the dirt road for another mile or so. Then we parked our car at a signpost and continued on foot beside the Allt Leachglach first trough some fir plantations and then through the open glen. On the right side of the glen the steep flanks of Stob Choire Gaibhre and Stob Coir nan Ceannain looked inviting indeed. Cruach Innse and Ston Innse on the left side were also very interesting Corbetts. But we had set our compass on climbing Stob Ban. After maybe 90 minutes we reached the bothy which lies at the foot of the north-east ridge of Stob Ban. There we rested for a short while and then contiuned up Stob Ban’s north-east ridge. First there is a steep section of the path that surmounts a rocky hump and then continues through a grassy depression. At the top of this section of the climb a nice and airy path runs a couple of dozens of metres below the skyline above and provides for an airy continuation with great views of Stob Choire Claurigh, the Grey Corries and the Giant’s Staircase below. Then the path reaches the ridge at a grassy saddle before, after another rise in the ridge, the final steep section of the climb starts. This is the summit pyramid of Stob Ban which consists of quartzite. White stones everywhere, loads of loose quartzite scree but the path is always clear albeit sometimes very steep and scree-strewn.

At the summit we paused and drank some water. The weather was very good and sun was shining brightly. I decided that after two days of major expeditions … [Read More]

These two Munros were the missing gems of our Mamore collection. I think the first Mamore Frank and I climbed was Sgurr an Iubhair in 1993 or 1994. Then there came Mullach nan Coirean and Sgurr Ban. Then Am Bodach. Then An Gearanach. Then a failed winter attempt at Sgurr a’Mhaim. Then the complete Ring of Steal. Then Binnein Mor and na Gruagachain. 2012 was the time to finally settle the score; but of course we do not bear a grudge against this fabulous mountain range which is certainly among the best in all of Scotland. It’s only that after almost 20 years it felt good to complete the round.

We started from the parking of the former Mamore Lodge Hotel which unfortunately is out of business today. This saved us the three-quid parking fee which we gladly would have given for the chance of sitting in the sun after the walk. From the lodge it was up the landrover track which snakes up the glen in the direction of Loch Eilde Mor. Then we left the road and took the stalkers path which crosses the open land below Na Gruagachain’s south ridge, crossed the burn coming down from the corrie above and skirted the south side of Sgurr Eilde Mor. The path deposited us on the beallach between the two Sgurr Eildes in Coire an Lochain which holds a not so small lochan. The sky was clear, the views were really stupendous. What a half circle of mountains. Photos taken we headed for Sgurr Eilde Beag and climbed the grassy, stony and gravel-strewn south ridge of this conical peak. At the summit we again marvelled at the views that now also included Ben Nevis, the Grey Corries and some of the other Mamore summits.

We descended the north-west ridge of Sgurr Eilde Beag. The steep snow fields we encountered below the summit seemed to be inviting us to glide down into the corrie below. However, the snow was frozen and we had no winter equipment. Thus prudence prevailed and we followed … [Read More]

These two Munros were the missing gems of our Mamore collection. I think the first Mamore Frank and I climbed was Sgurr an Iubhair in 1993 or 1994. Then there came Mullach nan Coirean and Sgurr Ban. Then Am Bodach. Then An Gearanach. Then a failed winter attempt at Sgurr a’Mhaim. Then the complete Ring of Steal. Then Binnein Mor and na Gruagachain. 2012 was the time to finally settle the score; but of course we do not bear a grudge against this fabulous mountain range which is certainly among the best in all of Scotland. It’s only that after almost 20 years it felt good to complete the round.

We started from the parking of the former Mamore Lodge Hotel which unfortunately is out of business today. This saved us the three-quid parking fee which we gladly would have given for the chance of sitting in the sun after the walk. From the lodge it was up the landrover track which snakes up the glen in the direction of Loch Eilde Mor. Then we left the road and took the stalkers path which crosses the open land below Na Gruagachain’s south ridge, crossed the burn coming down from the corrie above and skirted the south side of Sgurr Eilde Mor. The path deposited us on the beallach between the two Sgurr Eildes in Coire an Lochain which holds a not so small lochan. The sky was clear, the views were really stupendous. What a half circle of mountains. Photos taken we headed for Sgurr Eilde Beag and climbed the grassy, stony and gravel-strewn south ridge of this conical peak. At the summit we again marvelled at the views that now also included Ben Nevis, the Grey Corries and some of the other Mamore summits.

We descended the north-west ridge of Sgurr Eilde Beag. The steep snow fields we encountered below the summit seemed to be inviting us to glide down into the corrie below. However, the snow was frozen and we had no winter equipment. Thus prudence prevailed and we followed … [Read More]

Day 2 of our 2008 Scotland walking weekend. Thomas had cooked us a lot of good food and we let the evening end with beer and fire! We had earned that. After we had hiked the big shepherd the day before, we turned to our local mountains on 05.10 so to speak. The Mamores were right in front of our front door and we had a direct view to Na Gearanach, which means “The Girls”. Also this day should remain memorable in many ways.

We saved some altitude meters and drove with the cars to Mamore Lodge, where we could park for an acceptable final fee. Especially Thomas suffered from knees and muscles and every saved meter came in handy. In a good mood and much more important – in the best weather – we marched off. Only Thomas didn’t, he shot off and soon had a few hundred meters between him and us. Something he had probably had breakfast, which we didn’t have. Nevertheless we took the opportunity to explore and look at the area around Kinlochlewen from a different perspective. The view of Loch Leven was as impressive as the appearance of the Blackwater Reservoir. But now it was time to catch the nags again and to point out to Thomas in time that the path would not continue to meander idyllically towards Loch Eilde Mór, but that also today 2 Munros were waiting for the ambitious climber. And that meant – right – ascent.

We then crossed the terrain towards Sgor Eilde Beag on an excellent Stalkers Path, which opened up the steepest parts in serpentines. Here it turned out that Thomas was really suffering and had to grit his teeth to survive here. A condition that unfortunately should not change throughout the day. Nevertheless, after almost 1.5 h we reached the first summit of the day, the 956 m high Sgor Eilde Beag. The first Munro should be climbed another 1.5 h later. From here we hiked on the beautiful ridge to the 1062m high Triangle-Top, which led … [Read More]

Day 2 of our 2008 Scotland Hiking Weekend. Thomas had cooked us well in the evening and we let the evening end comfortably with beer and fire! We deserved that.

After we have hiked the day before the big shepherd we turned on 05.10 so to speak to our house mountains. The Mamores were right in front of our front door and we had a direct view of Na Gearanach, which means “the girls”. Also this day should remain memorable in several respects.

We saved some altitude meters and drove with the cars to the Mamore Lodge, where we could park against an acceptable final charge. Especially Thomas suffered from knees and muscles and every metre saved was just fine.

In a good mood and much more important – in the best weather – we marched off. Only Thomas didn’t, he shot off and soon had brought some hundred meters between himself and us. Something he had probably had a special breakfast, which we did not have. Nevertheless, we took the opportunity to explore the area around Kinlochlewen from a different perspective. The view of Loch Leven was as impressive as the appearance of the Blackwater Reservoir. But now we had to catch the horse again and point out to Thomas in time that the way would not continue to meander so idyllically towards Loch Eilde Mór, but that also today 2 Munros waited for the ambitious climber. And that meant, right, ascent.

We then crossed the terrain towards Sgor Eilde Beag on an excellent Stalkers Path, which opened up the steepest sections in serpentines. Here it showed that Thomas really suffered and had to bite his teeth together to survive here. A condition that unfortunately should not change during the whole day. Nevertheless we reached the first summit of the day, the 956 m high Sgor Eilde Beag, after about 1.5 hours. The first Munro was to be climbed about 1.5 h later. From here we hiked on the beautiful Ridge to the 1062m high Triangle-Top which led direktissma to Binnein Beag. Thomas … [Read More]

For the third year in row we embarked on a walk starting in Glen Nevis. From the car park we walked to the Steall ruin and to the bridge over the Allt Coire Giubhsachan. From there we followed the path up the south-west ridge of Sgurr a’Bhuic. Climbing steadily we gained height quickly. Then we lost the path.

We were on the south-westerly side of the ridge and had to climb very steep grass slopes to reach the final steepening of the south-west ridge of Sgurr a’Bhuic 150 m below the summit. The cairn of this fine hill is perched at the edge of a long vertical drop. There were new and interesting angles on Ben Nevis to be seen from there. Before continuing onward to Stob Coire Bhealaich we took a break to eat a snack and to take in the views of the Grey Corries and Sgurr Choinnich Mor. On the ridge leading to the summit of Stob Coire Bhealaich the east face of Aonach Beag dominated the view ahead. There still were some cornices left and there was still plenty of snow in the gullies and even on the plateau.

From Stob Coire Bhealaich we continued on the path and climbed the broad south-east shoulder of Aonach Beag. It was quite windy on the plateau so we did not stay at the cairn for long. The descent to the bealach between the small ridge and the big ridge did not take long. From the col we followed the path to the massive cairn of Aonach Beag where we paused for a while. As forecast, the wind picked up and the air got considerably colder. Soon conditions became quite uncomfortable on the plateau and we headed for the west ridge of Aonach Mor. The path on this ridge is sandy, gravelly and very steep. Real fun and exciting. Once at the bealach under Carn Mor Dearg we took the path on the right-hand side of the Allt Coire Giubhsachan which – over two steps in the floor of … [Read More]

2005 For the third year in row we embarked on a walk starting in Glen Nevis. From the car park we walked to the Steall ruin and to the bridge over the Allt Coire Giubhsachan. From there we followed the path up the south-west ridge of Sgurr a’Bhuic. Climbing steadily we gained height quickly. Then we lost the path.

We were on the south-westerly side of the ridge and had to climb very steep grass slopes to reach the final steepening of the south-west ridge of Sgurr a’Bhuic 150 m below the summit. The cairn of this fine hill is perched at the edge of a long vertical drop. There were new and interesting angles on Ben Nevis to be seen from there. Before continuing onward to Stob Coire Bhealaich we took a break to eat a snack and to take in the views of the Grey Corries and Sgurr Choinnich Mor. On the ridge leading to the summit of Stob Coire Bhealaich the east face of Aonach Beag dominated the view ahead. There still were some cornices left and there was still plenty of snow in the gullies and even on the plateau.

From Stob Coire Bhealaich we continued on the path and climbed the broad south-east shoulder of Aonach Beag. It was quite windy on the plateau so we did not stay at the cairn for long. The descent to the bealach between the small ridge and the big ridge did not take long. From the col we followed the path to the massive cairn of Aonach Beag where we paused for a while. As forecast, the wind picked up and the air got considerably colder. Soon conditions became quite uncomfortable on the plateau and we headed for the west ridge of Aonach Mor. The path on this ridge is sandy, gravelly and very steep. Real fun and exciting. Once at the bealach under Carn Mor Dearg we took the path on the right-hand side of the Allt Coire Giubhsachan which – over two steps in the floor … [Read More]